WHERE: Spain; specifically Barcelona, Granada, and Madrid

WHEN: December 2025

TRAVEL PROFILE: Traveled as a couple without our young child; a road trip between several locations within Spain to experience local culture, great food, exceptional art, and the seasonal European Christmas markets in relatively mild weather.

We flew into Barcelona from the States, flying overnight and arriving in the morning. After four nights there, we rented a BMW 420d convertible and drove down the beautiful coastal E-15 highway, taking us through Castellon, Valencia, and then along the foothills of the Sierra Nevada into Granada. After valeting the car for a few days (tight roads and extremely limited parking), we drove north down out of the mountains and into the heart of Spain’s rolling country side. A quick, planned stop in Toledo for some wonderful views was our last scenic stop before fighting the bustle of Madrid traffic to drop the rental off at the Atocha Train Station, a harrowing final mile of driving in its infamous traffic circle. We spent a final two nights in Madrid before flying back home.

Author’s note: content here will periodically change as details emerge, and I get around to remembering more about our trips and planning research

BARCELONA

NOTES

Being it is 2025, Barcelona is already a well-known, and exceptionally well traveled, destination. We decided to visit off-season, to avoid the obvious crowds (and the locals’ equally infamous disdain for them) that often hit during the peak of summer. Visiting in December cut off one of Barcelona’s more popular draws — its beach along the Mediterranean — however we felt it more than made up for it with mild weather hosting charming Christmas markets. Food, art, and a vibrant bar scene all lived up to the hype

LODGING

Wittmore Hotel (stayed) - instagram - Gothic Quarter - 1 Michelin Key - a unique and boutique hotel situated off of a quiet alley in the pedestrian only part of the Gothic Quarter. Excellent food on sight, all rooms face an internal garden. Quiet, sexy, incognito, luxury
The One Barcelona (stayed) - instagram - Exiample - 1 Michelin Key - a modern, luxurious stay in Exiample, within walking distance to local tapas bars, great shopping, and tourist destinations while being apart from them. Incredible rooftop pool (open seasonally)/cocktail views (open year round)

FOOD

Cocina Hermanos Torres (dined) - instagram - Les Corts de Sarria - 3 Michelin Stars - a wonderfully open dining concept that has earned its three stars serving a decadent multi-course meal that highlights exceptional Spanish flavors. Access to the chefs and staff, and being able to watch them cook, was a highlight
Tercero Primera (dined) - instagram - Exiample - ever wondered what it would feel like to dine as a true Barcelonan? To experience the freshness of local markets and the flavors conjured up by local talent? Look no further than Chef Arianna’s gorgeously simple dining concept, in a non-descript apartment in the heart of the city. This is a meal that focuses on simplicity, flavor, and ambience, where you get to know Arianna as a friend and soak in her hospitality alongside her cuisine
Babula Bar 1937 (dined) - instagram - Exiample - a popular tapas bar near, but far enough off, from de Gracia. We had the infamous steak tartare, ceviche, and a few samplings of some other dishes
La Pepita (dined) - instagram - Gracia - a Catalan tapas bar a black back from the famous Av. Diagonal. Great seafood, cocktails, and a charming and vibrant decor
La Alcoba (had drinks) - instagram - Gothic Quarter - a charming tapas bar in the tight back alleyways of Barcelona’s charming Gothic Quarter. We just had drinks but the food looked excellent and it was packed with locals

COFFEE, COCKTAILS + THINGS TO DO

Coffee Casa (coffee; enjoyed) - instagram - El Born - a quiet coffee spot near a square on the fringe of the Gothic Quarter and the central museum sector
Salterio (tea + drinks; enjoyed) - facebook - Gothic Quarter - a small, extremely cozy tea shop nestled in a stone stall in the old town. Finding a spot for drinks is first come, first serve; dining encourages reservations. Tea is first rate, where you can see the servings being made, beer and small bites also available for order
Yako Coffee (coffee; enjoyed) - instagram - Gracia / Exiample - a quite, adorable coffee shop on the border between Exiample and Gracia, perfect for a stop over on the way towards the Parque Guell. Equally pleasant is just spending some time in the small playground park area this coffee shop faces
Handy Bakery (bakery + coffee; enjoyed) - instagram - Gracia - a trendy bakery off a quiet street in the bustling Gracia area. We stopped after trekking down from the Parque Guell sights and vistas. Excellent baked goods, really good coffee
Monk (cocktails; enjoyed) - instagram - El Born - a speakeasy style bar, a sister one to Paradiso, a one time World’s 50 Best Bar winner) where one enters through a general shop at street level and is then escorted down to a beautiful bar carved into the stone archways of the catacombs (or at least that’s its vibe.) Nice drinks, good music, great staff, and a unique setting is a perfect place for a quick pre-dinner cocktail

GRANADA

NOTES

Granada is, at its heart, a melting pot of history, culture, and sport. Nestled on the north side of the Sierra Nevada range, snowcapped through much of the year, Granada boasts an active winter and summer sport scene (think apres-ski and mountain biking, respectively) mingled with the energy that comes from being one of the most diverse study-abroad campuses in Europe. Factor in a storied history with North African/Islamic influences, colonial Spanish history, and its modern footprint keeping it relevant, Granada’s charm is endless. Locals hint: grab some drinks at your favorite cozy tapas spot and watch the free food pour in with each round

LODGING

Seda Club Hotel (stayed) - instagram - Central - 1 Michelin Key - located in the very central heart of Granada, Seda Club offers a quiet yet well-appointed luxury respite from the sights (and hills) of the city. Traveler’s note: as we drove into the city, this hotel is located in the typically pedestrian-only alleys and squares of the heart of the city. Exceptions are made for taxis and hotel guests, but navigating once off the major roads can be a bit harrowing and parking is next to impossible. We opted for the great, but pricey, valet service and left the car for the few days we stayed here

FOOD

Betula Nana (dined) - instagram - Centro - our absolute favorite restaurant in the city. This is a small restaurant run by a charming lady (who reminded me a bit of Spanish Olivia Colman). The menu is small but perfect, with great wine and a local beer list. We were bewitched
Om Kalsum (dined) - tripadvisor - Centro/Sagrario - a wonderful Moroccan/North African tapas joint; order Granada-style, whereby you order your drinks and eat whatever they decide to serve you. Beginner’s mistake: we ordered off of the menu first, which was excellent, but portions were huge and it was way more expensive than it could have been had we just done it right
Mercado de San Agustín - website - Centro - a modern farmer’s market mixed with a food stall, a great place to sample food from a variety of vendors

COFFEE, COCKTAILS + THINGS TO DO

Alhambra - wikipedia - I am not going to try to give too much advise here, as getting tickets to, and the navigating, this labyrinthian palace is a) a logistical nightmare and b) worth every single amount of effort. The palace is stunning, a work of unspeakable art that has lasted hundreds of years. The effort is due to an attempt to control overcrowding, so do your research, or better yet, lean on your concierge. We wish we did and we likely overpaid. Still, no regrets
El Balcón de San Nicolás (drinks with a view; enjoyed) - instagram - Arabic Quarter - you come here for a beer, a glass of wine, and the view. Can’t speak to the food, reviews aren’t great, but there is no denying that it’s one of the best views in the city. Try to grab a good table and just enjoy
La Nazari (coffee + take away) - instagram - Arabic Quarter - if you’re making the hike up the hills to get the southern views over Alhambra and out to the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountain range, here’s a great coffee stop to refresh before settling into a nice viewing spot
NoNiNa LocArt (local art stall) - instagram - Centro - this little art kiosk in the middle of the square was a 1 minute walk from our hotel, Seda Club Hotel. It is a great place to pick up art, mostly prints, from local artists. It is a consignment shop, representing multiple artists, great for meaningful gifts for those back home

MADRID

NOTES

Often overlooked for its more popular cousin on the Med, Spain’s economic center of Madrid has all the Christmas charm of a Scandinavian capitol, with its sprawling artisan markets and wedding-cake terraces wrapped in wrought iron. Its food scene is fierce, standing toe to toe with anywhere else in the country, and it excels over all others in its emphasis on art. Some of the world’s preeminent museums are here, and I highly recommend setting aside some significant time to visit at least one of them

LODGING

Thompson Madrid (stayed) - instagram - Centro - the Thompson is a charming Hyatt concept settled off of a smaller square in the heart of Madrid. Within walking distance are a number of excellent neighborhoods for food and drink, and the major galleries are all a walk, or a short taxi ride, away. We particularly loved strolling around the trendy action of Malsana, visiting the Christmas markets just off the Gran Via, and exploring the museums near the Parque de El Retiro

FOOD

Sala de Despice (dined) - instagram - Centro (several locations) - it’s hard to describe the SDD concept without potentially alienating a few minds, but that would be a massive disservice. SDD, at least the one we visited, was built in a reclaimed butchershop in the heart of Centro. It offers a clinical experience, where you sit at what is essentially a meat counter, complete with hooks above you (that serve to only hold your bags, thankfully.) The menu, light by the hospital-grade, bright white lighting, offers inventive takes on vegetable, egg, meat, and seafood centric dishes, with 3-6 servings working well for 2-3 people, depending on appetite and the dishes selected. The talented staff explains each dish and you get to watch it prepped, and manyplates are often finished right in front of you

COFFEE, COCKTAILS + THINGS TO DO

Parque del Buen Retiro (visited) - wikipedia - Centro - a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2021, Retiro Park, or El Retiro, is a large central park in the heart of Madrid, providing a calm respite from the bustle of the city while also providing a number of activities within it. Flanking it are numerous museums, cafes, and restaurants
Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum (visited) - instagram - Centro - one of a trilogy of world class art museums, all a few minutes walks from each other. This one has a wide range of eras represented, as it is a privately held and beautifully curated collection, with some additional pieces on loan. A joint Warhol and Pollock exhibit was active while we were there, worth admission on its own
Museo Nacional del Prado - instagram - Centro - the national art museum of Spain, specializing in European art spanning the last millennium
Museo Reina Sofia - instagram - Centro - Spain’s national museum of modern and contemporary art, spanning the last 100 years
Plaza Mayor (visited) - wikipedia - Centro - a beautiful plaza in the center of the city, which was brimming with charming Christmas markets while we visited
James Tweed Coffee (enjoyed) - instagram - Calle de Piamonte - a charming slice of Scotland nestled in the heart of Madrid. The coffee itself was pretty limited and standard fare, but the shop was stuffed with authentic antiques with the niche feature that almost every piece in the shop was for sale. Everything from vintage coffee grinders, busts, leather chairs, old books and maps, and art was on stunning display